Friday, March 29, 2013

the comfiest comfort food

This is what zillah actually wanted to eat the night she made the Asian noodle salad, she just doesn't know it yet. With a flaky, buttery crust (Deb from Smitten Kitchen certainly knows how to do pastry right), and a light, smooth gravy, it's pretty much the perfect meal on a dreary day. But since spring is coming, and we might be running out of days to eat this, I found it imperative to post this as soon as possible.

As I typed out this recipe, it suddenly looked long and complex. But it doesn't feel that way when you're making it, I promise. My only complaint is that the original recipe for the sauce doesn't have much flavor, in my opinion. Butter and garlic are great, but combined with flour and broth, they make for a very bland gravy.  It needed something more, so I added dried thyme and rosemary. I may have once put in some Herbes de Provence and maybe sage as well.

White bean and Swiss Chard Pot Pies
From The Smitten Kitchen Cookbook or online here with my slight alterations shown below

Biscuit Lid
2 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
13 tablespoons unsalted butter
6 tablespoons sour cream/greek yogurt
1 tabelspoons white vinegar
1/4 cup ice water
1 egg, beaten, + 1 tablespoon water (for egg wash)

Directions:

1. In a large, wide bowl, combine the fl our and salt. Add the butter and, using a pastry blender or your fingertips, cut them up and into the flour mixture until it resembles little pebbles. Keep breaking up the bits of butter until the texture is like uncooked couscous. 
2. In a small dish, whisk together the sour cream, vinegar, and water, and combine it with the butter-flour mixture. 
3. Using a flexible spatula, stir the wet and the dry together until a craggy dough forms. If needed, get your hands into the bowl to knead it a few times into one big ball. Pat it into a flattish ball, wrap it in plastic wrap, and chill it in the fridge for 1 hour or up to 2 days.

Filling
2 tabelspoons olive oil
4 oz diced pancetta (optional)
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 carrots, sliced into 1/8 inch rounds
2 celery stalks, sliced
pinch red pepper flakes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 garlic cloves, minced
about 4 cups thinly sliced Swiss chard leaves
3 1/2 tablespoons butter
3 1/2 tablespoons purpose flour
3 1/2 cups chicken or vegetable broth
2 cups white beans, cooked and drained
1/2 teaspoon each dried thyme and rosemary leaves (or other combination of homey herbs)

Directions:
Make filling: 
1. (If including pancetta)  Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium- high heat in a large, wide saucepan, and then add the pancetta. Brown the pancetta, turning it frequently, so that it colors and crisps on all sides; this takes about 10 minutes. Remove it with a slotted spoon, and drain it on paper towels before transferring to a medium bowl. Leave the heat on and the renderings in the pan. 
2. Add an additional tablespoon of olive oil if needed and heat it until it is shimmering. Add onions, carrot, celery, red pepper flakes, and a few pinches of salt, and cook over medium heat until the vegetables are softened and begin to take on color, about 7 to 8 minutes. 
3. Add the garlic, and cook for 1 minute more. 
4. Add the greens and cook until wilted, about 2 to 3 minutes. 
5. Season with the additional salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Transfer all of the cooked vegetables to the bowl with the pancetta, and set aside.

Make sauce:
1. Melt the butter in the saucepan over medium- low heat. Add the flour, and stir with a whisk until combined. Continue cooking for 2 minutes, stirring the whole time, until it begins to take on a little color. 
2. Whisk in the broth, one ladleful at a time, mixing completely between additions. Once you've added one- third of the broth, you can begin to add the rest more quickly, two to three ladlefuls at a time.
3. Once all of the broth is added, stirring the whole time, bring the mixture to a boil and reduce it to a simmer. Cook the sauce until it is thickened and gravylike, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Stir the white beans and reserved vegetables into the sauce.
Preheat your oven to 375 degrees.
Assemble and cook pot pies: Smitten Kitchen says you should divide the filling in 4 ovenproof bowls, but as I don't have any of those, I used a 8 x 10 inch pan that I set on a baking sheet.

1. Roll out your dough into one large rectangle (or small circles, if you're lucky enough to have the requisite bowls) and cover your pan or bowls with an overhang, or about 1 inch wider in diameter than your receptacle. 
2. Whisk the egg wash and brush it lightly around the top rim of your pant (to keep the lid glued on) and drape the pastry over each, pressing gently to adhere it. Brush the lids with egg wash, then cut decorative vents in each to help steam escape. Bake until crust is lightly bronzed and filling is bubbling, about 30 to 35 minutes.

Thursday, March 14, 2013

meditations on spicy asian noodle salad

When ixoj and I were trying to decide on our very first recipe for the blog we should have started together years ago, she sent me the link to this salad right after I got home from a (delicious) dinner of chicken cordon bleu and banana dulce de leche pie at some friends' house. Since I'm vegetarian and gave up sugar (with the necessary exception of hot chocolate) for Lent, except for in occasions where potential social awkwardness outweighs my food-centered convictions, I was feeling a little odd post-dinner, and a salad sounded perfect.

Last night, after expanding my 4.5-mile trek home through a bizarre snow/sleet/rain storm with detours into three different stores in search of some damn tofu (it's surprisingly difficult to find in London outside of Asian food stores (which, as a sidenote, they call Oriental food stores, which always surprises me, since 'oriental' in the US is vaguely un-pc with colonialist undertones (thanks, Said)), and I had, of course, forgotten to pick it up with my overpriced lemongrass at the one Thai supermarket in Camden), I wasn't craving a cold salad quite so much. But it was late and I was feeling woolly-minded and adaptation wasn't really my forte at the moment. Plus, I found when I arrived home that I didn't have any fish sauce, which I think would have added some needed complexity to the dressing, which really just tasted very, very spicy, and not much else. In other words: I felt a little let down (a situation I rectified by some judiciously imbibed hot chocolate). But it isn't entirely the recipe's fault. I wouldn't go so far to take all the blame, but perhaps it's a mutual letdown, mixed with bad timing.

Spicy Asian Noodle Salad (with some notes for possible improvements)
(from here, where you can also see beautiful, well-lit photos taken with an expensive camera)

Note: I think that this salad really is best for summer, and some tomatoes would work well here, along with some chopped bok choy. I think it would also benefit from a quick saute of the noodles in the tofu pan, so that they get hot and a little crispy, and a quick pickling of the vegetables before adding them to the salad. I picked up some fresh rice noodles at the store, and while I didn't use them last night, I think they'd work well here too.

Ingredients

12 oz.-ish extra firm tofu, cut into small cubes (drain well, wrapped in a towel with a plate or bowl on top)
Vegetable oil
2 servings flat rice stick noodles

Spicy lemongrass sauce
3-4 cloves minced garlic
1" minced fresh ginger or galangal (I used the latter)
2 finely chopped lemongrass stalks
1-2 minced bird's eye chili peppers (I used two, and it was definitely on the very spicy side)
1 t turmeric
5 T soy sauce
1.5 T sesame oil
1 T rice vinegar
2 t raw or brown sugar
Fish sauce (the original recipe says you can use salt, but I think the fish sauce would be better)


Vegetables/herbs of choice
I used a generous handful of both cilantro and Thai basil, some spring onion, shredded carrots, matchstick cucumbers, and shallots. Some other good options would be bok choy, bean sprouts, peas, etc. A good option would be to quickly pickle at least the carrots, onions, and cucumbers in some vinegar with a bit of salt and sugar.

2 T crushed peanuts or toasted sesame seeds.


Directions
1. Chop and drain the tofu for 10 minutes (or just pat it very dry)
2. Combine all the ingredients for the spicy lemongrass sauce in a small bowl.
3. Toss the tofu cubes with 2 T (or more) of the sauce and set aside to marinate for 10-15 minutes.
4. Heat the oil in a non-stick skillet, then add the tofu and cook until it's well browned (2-3 minutes on each side).
5. Meanwhile, cook the rice noodles (about 5 minutes in boiling water). Drain, rinse under cold water.
(at this point, I would toss them in with the tofu for a minute or two)
6. Put the noodles in the serving bowl, drizzle and toss with a little sesame oil, then toss with the vegetables/herbs and tofu. Drizzle with the dressing, and add peanuts or sesame seeds if desired.